I've driven with the same design of the boards on my last four builds. It does admittedly a little more time to get to but you can easily control the shape to make it exactly as you want and the end result is very strong.
It was empty in the shop for once so I could take a few side pictures of the kayak looks like right now. First time when you just saw the unfinished wood surface I thought it seemed a bit clumsy in shape (at least in view of the dimensions), but now that stuff starts to sit on the ground have the "slim" to themselves. Think it will be even better with some color on the deck ..
The shape of the rib should I do in the same pink isolerplast as the rest of the molds - cutting the small pieces and melt glue (stingy with the glue ..) in place. Then I shape the width, height and bend so you get a sense of how the finished boards will look like. A layer of masking tape to guard against any piece of release and then the thin plastic film as a release agent.
Usually add about ten layers fiber - three coal and the glass. Try adding pieces with joints as little overlap as possible so it becomes not so much to grind down late.
Many stock ..
Back in place
The day after it has hardened so much that you can gently pry it loose and rough cut and rasp to shape. Then, simply glue with thickened epoxy, putty hålkärl and add some reinforcement strips on the inside and outside. Usually double in the front and rear because I always lift there.
There are also images and text from my last build ..
We have the annual meeting of the canoe club this weekend so the secretary has little else pottering few days to come. But it will update as soon as I have something more to show ..