This was the annual meeting of the and most papperspysslet done. Although it is not really so large workload, it has been difficult to focus on construction. So far, of course mostly gone on routine but now that I approach the cockpit and the design of the forward deck requires little concentration again.
Run with the approach of the recent construction work except that I'm a little more accurate with the pass, it would now be naturally finished interior decks. So I dread all the edges so no end grain is visible, and try to keep the clean lines of the joints. Wallpaper planer is invaluable here ..
When everything is ready to sharpen my inclination before I continue - but leave the top at last.
After the first fitting the pieces, it is time for the part where the rib should be. Here you have the possibility to control up pretty well so you get exactly the slope you want. I have a slight S-bend here, too, to harmonize with the railing. One can also make it slightly curved transverse, so as not to feel overly flat.
Then, simply glue the strips again, simple at first, harder closer to the edge. Prebend with the heat gun to make it easier to fit in without too much violence. Also, try to find strips that turar well as the surface becomes smoother and easier to sand inside corners without scratching the inclined pieces later.
When everything is ready, I measure out the cockpit hole, cutting this and dread the edge so that the boards get the right angle. Gradual slope at the front, more in the back and straighter between ..
The next step
Eventually you just have to cut down the boards to the appropriate height - about 20 mm at the rear, and up to 25-30 in the front. The actual rim & flange in carbon I do not until the deck is clear and has glass on both sides.
Have outlined the recess in the foredeck, but not felt quite satisfied, so on Monday I made a new variant that is slightly larger and touching the cockpit. I know that you should be wary of new ideas during the construction time but this one felt pretty good. So after a few cups of coffee and a couple of hours thinking I put the saw into the wood.
Has set back the cut-out frames and started with the first few bars and it'll probably be able to see ok anyway ..
Update Thursday morning .. Last night I glued there the last bars of the foredeck and after the obligatory coffee break, I managed a fast abrasion well.
I saved a piece of the origin of the tire to stay in shape and have a nice bend to start. More puzzles before the first bit is in place as it must be planed along well, but then it is easier. Measure carefully, working with the plane a little at a time and try to place frequently. Becomes too short, so save the next step. And cheating is not here, foredeck is the middle of the spotlight for all future paddling ..
The easiest way to put pressure on the joints are tape and a piece list - fast and good point pressure. And a decent masking tape is good enough - sufficiently rigid and strong, leaving no residue and is easy to tear off. Duct tape is too heavy job and tear the wood. Forget clamps or straps ..
.. And rough ground
I was a little unsure about the truth it would really be good or it would look a bit contrived to have or cup as close to the cockpit. But the end result feels ok. It starts invisibly in the cockpit, to be two weeks later in the foredeck and then fade down to the railing again. Unfortunately, it is difficult to photograph the carpet shell, the camera can not focus, but then when the epoxy is so visible it is probably better.
The next step is lowering the shutters, before it is fiberglass over it all ..
Update Friday night .. How can it be if you peeps a little closer. Approximately the same place as close-up above, after coarse grinding.
Pretty ok eh ..?