There are several reasons why I design and build their own kayaks, but mainly is well that I have not found a commercial model that I have been really happy with. Although many works decently in some areas, I think often they reach quite all the way - either too heavy, dull or boring for my taste. So instead of just sitting o acidic one has to try to fix something better myself ..
I paddle a lot, from the lake and flat water to the archipelago and open sea, almost all year round. It spans the usual entertainment & slöpaddling, training and exercise, instruction, turledning to week-long club tour. Between 150-200 mil per year for the last ten years. Almost all paddling out clean training / competition takes place in the same kayak. It is probably not always the best choice for all things but with their favorite jeans - his beautiful and you have a lot memories / emotions together ..
Form and function
My kayak will therefore have a wide användnigsområde and there are many factors at play, but you should try hårdra it something it is mainly the three things I prioritize:
It should be easy to paddle. Given that most of the paddling is done, more or less, straight forward, it is well quite naturally. Now of course the kayak is not really a direct "fast" vehicles so it is good enough to go just a little bit higher than most others. So that you get a little more freedom and scope, and that the groups paddling for example, be able to paddle around and take pictures, help where needed, or maybe just take an extra cup of coffee before you dash off ..
It should be manöverbar. The kayak is preferable, with minimum effort, going the direction I want - both in terms of safety and fun equality perspective, on flat water and waves. Then, I prefer the skeg on sea kayaks, just as I'd rather run the motorcycle than a car. Sure, it's not quite as easy, but fun, and who currently hold's the hurry ..
It should be easy to work with. Large cockpit - easy to get in, decently roomy so you can move your legs properly and with good knee support. Round rubber hatches - dense and easy to open. Skeg with string / cord - unfolds itself and no wire kinks. Lots of lines & rubber cord on the deck. In short, it should work, long and low maintenance ..
Zedtech K1 Beta P2, modern racing kayak
Corsa GT / New Kayak
I've tried to think a little freer and rather than follow the conventional ideas of what a sea kayak to look, glanced more on tour boats, racing canoes and surfski for inspiration. Primarily in terms of speed - friction and wave drag - but also management of the seaway.
- Over the years, my kayaks have become increasingly round-bottomed, and the last is a pretty accurate super lips below the water level with mittspantet.
For / midship / stern
- All kayaks going to swing by the edge but a curved keel line provides further improved maneuverability. Good especially when the kayak is getting a little longer.
- Finally, I have no concave surfaces at all in the hull. Richer ändskepp gives clear bow and häckvåg, which in turn allows for higher hull speed.
The underwater body
Everything to get a minimal wetted surface, high cruising speed, predictable patterns of movement of waves and great strength in actual construction. Weak swede form - more pointed bow and fuller aft reduces the kayak starts to climb up. Also has very little overhang in the face why, for smaller deadweight and wind / vågfång. The higher foredeck counteracts to some extent upplovning in crosswind and provides more buoyancy in the surf. Does it also the end result will be fairly easy kayak also quite lively - easy to accelerate and turn.
Such is the theory out, about ..
I have always been based on a previous kayak when I begin to sketch out the next. Only a loose longitudinal profile, to then start looking at the transverse and ribs. Almost all the work done in Illustrator, a program I've used for many years and thrive in. After much tuning, pill back and forth and kontrollmätande usually eventually start to like it. I save each version when I go on to be able to see the steps in the process, sometimes when things have inspired a little bit you can see them in a different light. Then get all happy to be on the desktop for a while too, so you have time to digest it properly. Only then I pick up BearBoatSP to check the form and get the data I want.
Simple lines in the beginning ..
Check the form at the railing, bottom, decks and waterline
Meeting of all the BearBoatSP
The reason I work here so awkward is that I want to have complete freedom to develop lines and shapes until everything is locked into the correct primitive 3D software. And since I started from a similar kayak and my drawings are so accurate from the start, I need basically just bear boat to reconcile the figures.
Something deeper bow ..
.. And fuller aft
Important data are: LCB - Longitudinal Center of Buoyancy - that was the balance lies. When you sit in the kayak, you want it to be in reasonably correct. Possibly slightly nose-heavy to then get up when it begins to climb the bow wave.
LCF - Longitudinal center of flotation - where buoyancy is located. Good with more buoyancy in the stern to prevent the kayak sits in speed.
CLA - center of lateral area - balance sideways, that you adjust with plaice. Since the program expects no skeg, it should be just above equilibrium, so that the kayak is lovgirig without skeg and fall with greedy.
Ready spantmall ..
.. And the side profile
That said, perhaps not the easiest way to get a kayak drawing .. But vf, one has to be true to his cheating soul, as someone said. Are you now a petimeter get well like certainty as well ..
Please check on John Linder's page on Clapotis Sea Kayak - he has a slightly different way of working. Do not know if it really is faster but the results are of course just as good .. There is also much more information about everything else around it, tips and links.