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It feels like it is only now when the frames are in place and it brings up the bars to get going with the hull, as construction starts for real. All other jobs with the drawings, procurement and construction jig is just a little craft before. Now finally beginning work on the kayak.
I've done this a few times and begin to have a certain routine. Not that I'm sure it's the best approach (unlikely fastest ia f..) But it works great and I'm decently sure the end result.

Lister

First, I am looking up two straight strips per page, splices together, planes of the lower edges and pin at the railings. Hopefully turar the good against the markings so you can melt glue them directly. Also usually pin, without glue, a kölribba to support, not to frames from sliding longitudinally.

First sheerline

Then roll it up and running ..

- Picking up four new strips (two on each side) with a similar color and pattern.
- Measure and make sure they fit properly, check the cutting operation so they turar well with the bottom and make sure that the seam placement - preferably not in the middle of a frame. Fix a snedlask and mark with a pencil.
- Spread glue on one strip, clamp, tape and a dab of hot melt glue on the inside.
- Joints in the second piece.
- Go over and do the same on the other side. Just in time for the scan is complete, the first side has dried and you can remove the tape. If not, take a cup of coffee ..
- As I've covered why do I counter two parallel köllister that I fit in afterwards.

Measure out ..

.. And glue

Some tape

Some extra tips ..

- Always turn the round side of the milling up! Certainly it is easier to put glue in the bowl no at first but definitely not the end. The contoured side is also very sensitive and can not tape.
- If you have a planed side, turn it inward. It is much easier to grind the convex outside and the inside is probably boring anyway ..
- Try to find a good masking tape, is it too weak, you can not tighten properly, but it is just off. Have a couple of variations for different situations. Duct tape is too heavy job and tear the wood.
- Just in time with the glue. Mess is not too much, it should be removed since ..
- Working effectively. Vitlimmet dries pretty fast so squeeze it as fast as you can. And squeeze it properly, you will get a stronger joint. Pinch is not awry, so that you get a nut pattern between frames.
- Do you have complex profiles that will bend heat gun works great.
- I joints in virtually all bars. In the beginning it is easier to handle and catch glue two shorter pieces. In the end, it is easier to adjust a snedlask few mm to obtain the most accurate end piece as possible.

It does not need such advanced tools - virtually all the work is done only in pencil, ruler, japansåg, small hobby knife, wallpaper plane and a random orbit sander. Complete with the usual vitlim for outdoor use, tape and Clas Ohlson hot melt adhesive - attach moderately good.

Aft

For

"But shoot sometime .." Photo: Heidi Nielsen

Wands

I have to solve the inner stem of the same MDF frames, which I later removed when I do the inside. By just glue a little cautious, they tend to come off pretty easy and you get an easy form to add hålkärl and fiberglass in.
The disc is 12 mm thick and with drop the 4 +4 mm the stem radius less than 2 cm. It gives a nicely rounded with very decent tread.
When the panels are finished sanding down the edges of my rod-like and glue the two surface layers. The back is the radius so sharp that I joints with several short pieces, while up front it is usually going to bow to an entire list. Prebend with the heat gun, a few straps and a little creative thinking .. :)

The outer bow, a variant ..

.. And a different method ..

.. The end result

The best thing to glue each list post is that when the last piece is in place you can start to grind away. And use many frames as is usually the shape right ok, it is not so very rough form, but you can go directly to smooth the surface.
Uses Electric hand planers or rasp, depending on mood and courage, and then a lot of long boards. The board is really the ultimate tool to get a smooth finish and build enough some paddling muscles too .. Be careful not to push too hard just, it may fail part between frames, and it's the grains that will do the job, not your body weight ..
Downloaded epoxy and fiber yesterday and now I'll just take one last think to paint before I start with fiberglass ..
There is more about glue strip on my previous builds here, here and here ..

/ Ulf

Tags: Hull

This entry was posted January 24, 2012 at 15:59 and is saved in the Building , Kayaks , New kayak , Hull .