Drive with the same gaps in the last kayak, Kayak Sports 20 inch front, 15 snacks and 24 in the back. Nowadays it is considered probably quite meager indeed, but I have got used to pack small and they have worked well, light, tight and easy to put on and off. To bring down the hatches flush with the deck and get a flat surface to attach the webs against pours me a bowl of glass and carbon fiber.
I mostly use Divinycell as a mold material, easy to work and have smooth surfaces, and are available at most hardware stores. Ever downside is that the litter part, though less crumbs than Styrofoam, but it gets stuck in the same way everywhere when it becomes static while working.
Since I run with a 45 ° angle here, too, it is quite easy to draw out the shapes. The reason that I have a little less steep angle than usual, and that it will be easier to reach with hands and take off the o at the doors, and it is very difficult to fold fabric neatly around sharp bends. If you have vertical försänkningskanter becomes very crafting with fabric and you can almost do it in two rounds. Plus, you get a more sensitive edge around the door where you drag your luggage back and forth.
Once the form is complete round the edges I no plus putty up the inner corners with a little husfix. It does not matter so much if the surface is a bit rough, just the form is correct and accurate. Unveiled late when you lower down in the deck ..
A shower spray adhesive and then dressed all in with a thin plastic film as a release agent.
Approximately 5-2 carbon and 3 glasses - stock is usually enough. This time I took the last layer when I loosened the molds, to get a slightly smoother surface. More info and pictures here ..
Some use the vacuum and peelply but I think this is almost a little overkill, unless you run with mass production. You'll save Although a few grams but the fine surface is rather wasted because everything is still covered with more fabric ago.
It can be quite tricky to get pot lights in place then. It makes it easier to make a rough template by adding a piece of paper on pot and cover, and thus see how the big hole you will be cutting out. But in the end, there are no shortcuts, it's grind, grind try, try, etc. that apply. Look closely around all the edges and tuning also horizontally and along with the kayak. I usually like to have the rear doors slightly above the deck height as the kayak is wider here and there will be lines and other stuff around it. While the front cover look better if it sits slightly deeper. Try it yourself what you think looks best.
When it feels ok as punktar I fixed pot lights with snabbepoxi, smoothes the edges and adds a layer of glass. Mostly to protect the edge and not risk it cracks, the strength comes more from the bottom where I run with hålkärl and more fabric.
Luck Frame limits I put on last, after varnishing. Sickaflex and some small M2 bolts for safety. Just beading can drop when you take in a little extra when it is cold and the doors are stiff.
On the spot
.. Coffee ..
.. And up
When I started building kayaks for over ten years ago it was completely open, as in the archipelago and exercise kayaks that mattered. Everything was packed waterproof and it was used to stuff more or less wet. Although the bags were sealed so dripping it on the outside. On my first two kayaks, I had a shot in the back of slot ia la WTG Anita o Lisa. More like some sort of security thing, the water trickling in there too.
Then when I built my third kayak so I had little experience of working with wood and plastics, and wanted to try to give me to make it watertight wooden shutters. After much reflection and many hours of work, I got together something that actually worked. They looked pretty neat, sustained over seawater, rolls and POS when you opened them. However, wooden doors are susceptible .. The wood moves, the edges will be easy to support, gaskets need replacing and could lose a gap, not fun ..
So when I drew the fourth kayak, Corsan, was rubber hatches that mattered. The problem was most to find something nice and easy way to get those in place, but I think my depressions have resolved quite well ..
I have deliberately chosen to use only the round hatches Kayak Sport has a few different models but I like it best with LRC-HT series. Lighter-than-sterling rubber hatches but not quite on par with click-on versions, as I experienced can moisten a bit. As I have said, got used to pack small so it is pretty easy, tents, boots and kitchen goes down without much trouble. And then they are 100% tight, just dunsovsäcken and money and electronics that are in special waterproof bags nowadays. For clothes, I have only thin cloth bags in different colors and most other things are löspackat. Greatest danger to water in the kayak is actually one of my drinking water bottles or bags leaking. Alternatively, I forgot put on the tailgate or a hole in the bottom. Does not happen as often as luck would have .. If it rains a lot you can try to take care of seal under a tarp or keep close to the tent.
The small fikaluckans up feature is that I can access the entire rear space better. I have no partitions between bakluckorna but can slide right into the drinking water on the seat, which also serves as the bulkhead wall.
They are tight. Paragraph. Nothing, almost, almost, a few drops, etc. ..
They are easy to put on and off. Even when it's cold and when wearing gloves.
They are easy. My three doors and tearing weighs quite last gram 1 kg. The recesses about the same as the wood you are cutting away.
They are secure. You can climb on the kayak without being afraid to push or pull the shutters.
They are inexpensive.
They look great. Operation is nearly always neat and together with depressions, I think the whole is great. It reinforces the shape just like makeup or window frames, roofing, etc. on a house for example.
Hm, not sure where ..
On a kayak with a lower deck may depressions steal a little too much space and makes it difficult to bring down stuff.
If you have really great stuff you need to possibly larger hole in the kayak.
Nooo .. Wood is good to great, but when building gaps, it is perhaps not the most suitable material. Plastics and rubber plays as well as better here ..
95% of wooden doors leaks. 99% leakage after one year when the wood moves, the gasket is compressed and so on.
All one million nifty door closures, straps, locks, double doors, etc. that are fippliga to get involved with, stuff that does not work, freezing, corrosion ..
Nothing that directly enhance the appearance. Well, taste is of course different but are you fond of hidden windows and doors, things that look like something else (think tin roof in brick pattern, urk ..), so sure ..
My views on gaps in the kayaks .. Approximately ..
With doors, from behind ..
.. And the front
front elevation ..
.. And back
The top clear
Time to loosen the tire and fix the bottom. A little craft to clear the bottom of the recess around the cockpit, but otherwise tends to go right smoothly.
There will be no camping at Easter spirit this time, unfortunately, as a consolation, it will probably happen more in the shop instead ..