After the boards are in place, I usually go straight to the seat, it is fairly simple to make but is supposed to be attached at the rear of the deck and also integrates with the boards as well. I from the mold before kayaks, and even if it need be cleaned and repaired, the part between the turns saving a lot of time.
The seat is probably one of the parts most people are cheating with, unfortunately, also those who have the greatest impact. Sitting bad there is not much paddling. I think it is quite common to wait until the end of its solution, and then they have often not the time, energy or inclination to get into a really good flavor. It may be a pad or liggunderlagsbit directly on the bottom, at best, a rapid manufactured seat foam. Without proper testing of height, distance and its angle, or paddling for that matter ..
The first time I went on to have an integrated seat, that seat and bullet combined, was just as Skim had released their kayaks. I was quite impressed with the solution, but unfortunately I was not really good in it. Low bow made legs pinned under the knee and it got too tight.
So I took my loose foam seat, which had worked well for a year, and taped to the bottom of Corsaron that I was doing then. Developed back and sides with lots of tape and then on with plaster and strips. After some pottering, much putty, sanding and polishing, I got together a good plug to cast off. Unfortunately I was a little stingy with the release agent (one of the most important things you learn not save on ..) so it got chopped off afterwards. Not fun at all .. But the results where ok and I was fine. And next time, only to cast off and make a real form of fiberglass, about 4-5 layers. Occasionally heavy to stay in shape but softer than the seat itself, so you can outdo it away later.
If you find a seat you feel comfortable with so it saves a lot of work if it can be cast directly. But test it thoroughly. It is not always the one who is most comfortable after 15 minutes which works fine after 8 hours, or a year .. Please compare with bicycle seats or car seats, it is not always the softest, best in the long run ..
Sometimes it may need to be fixed a little småsprickor and stuff but then you just have to polish up the plug firmly and brush the release agent, about 3-4 times, at least .. Cut plenty of glass and carbon fiber and sure to have some whole pieces that begin and end with.
Usually start with a layer of glass closest to the plug, it's easiest to get to follow the shape and get into the corners and folds properly. The next layer is carbon fiber and this should be a bit picky and try to get it to be nice, that's the one seen late. Then alternate layers, about 6 in total. Finish with a great piece of glass so you get a smooth surface that ultimately does not pollute as much as you grind.
Run mostly by a thin foam roller and use just a small brush to get into the corners.
The day after breaking the man off the seat and gently trims the edges. It is still quite soft so take it easy ..
It can be tricky to get it to fit properly, but the easiest is to start at the top. First, cut it to the correct width. Then the tire just slightly arched so I continue to level off the top edge of the seat. Now you can quite easily round corners and get it to match the edge of the rim. Strap it with straps and a lot of shims to get as tight fitting as possible, before I punktar secure it with a thin string snabbepoxi. The leading edge fixes by taking the next frame and clamp as a template. Try often to be sure ..
When everything seems ok, I attach it with narrow strips of fiberglass on the inside, from about 1 cm and up, about 4-5 layers. It becomes part strains here and I want to avoid too many strips on the front.
Reinforcement aft deck
Took the opportunity to get some reinforcements in the rear deck. A simple method:
- A layer of adhesive tape for protection.
- Thin, V-shaped strips of foam, melt glue.
- More tape.
- Brush on release.
- 4-5 layers carbon o glass.
- Fragile hair down and polish the edges.
- Sand the surfaces and glue with thickened epoxy.
It had probably been able to glue thin strips of wood, too, or plastic coated in cellplastlistena directly. But it had become more sanding and uglier. Now, when someone put his head in the shot ..
Ice & Coal
Only knee and shot left ..
Now the seat is finished and it is only a few thin strips on the inside, the boards also.
It is admittedly a little job of casting the seat but once it is made, it is fairly easy to get it in place. It is easy to get into, easy, nothing that can come loose or tangled up, you empty your kayak a snap, and most importantly, I'm very good at it. Some may have no back or when a liggunderlagsbit the bottom but I think it's great not to have, even under 24-hour actually. Is fairly easy to solve, however, if you would be in the mood ..